Hanoi Pho: From a familiar dish to a cultural heritage

Cooking artisan Nguyen Thi Van, says Hanoi Pho deeply rooted in her childhood memories and dreams, sparked her passion to bring it to life. This inspiration led her to create the Long Bich pho chain, where she now shares the rich warmth and time-honored tradition of pho with the world.

In her recollections, Van told her parents would take her to a pho shop that served beef pho, whenever she received a good score at school.

“Those were beautiful memories, which is why I love and am so passionate about this dish. After getting married, I started selling pho. At first, I faced many difficulties, but I always followed my passion. I believe I have contributed to spreading the culinary culture of Hanoi and introducing it to international friends," Van said.

Van was telling her story at a seminar held by the Hanoi Department of Culture and Sports and Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper in the capital on December 1. Preserving and celebrating the intangible cultural heritage of "Hanoi Pho" – the iconic Hanoi rice noodles with beef or chicken – was the main topic discussed by experts and chefs at this event, part of the Hanoi Culinary Culture Festival 2024.

Proud of Hanoi's cuisine

A bowl of pho with beef. Photo courtesy of Suong pho restaurant.

Wherever they go, Vietnamese people take great pride in their traditional, delectable dishes that embody the rich culture and culinary heritage of the nation, with Hanoi’s cuisine standing out as a symbol of this legacy. The recognition of Hanoi Pho as an intangible cultural heritage by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism is a landmark achievement, underscoring that Hanoi’s cuisine is not only celebrated within Vietnam but also revered internationally.

"Pho Suong" – one of Hanoi’s beloved pho brands – has a history dating back to 1930. In the beginning, Nguyen Van Ty, the visionary behind "Pho Suong," would carry his pho from street to street, setting up his humble stall in the early morning, and returning in the evening to collect bowls and money. His dedication was unwavering, pouring his heart and soul into his work. But in 1956, amidst mounting financial struggles, he was forced to stop selling pho, marking the end of an era. Despite the hardships, the spirit of "Pho Suong" lived on, a testament to his passion and determination.

According to artisan Nguyen Thi Muoi, the practitioner of the heritage and owner of Pho Suong, in 1985, her mother gathered all family members to continue the tradition passed down by their ancestors.

“From then on, my siblings and I have worked side by side for 40 years. We named it 'Pho Suong' because we believe that after eating pho, you should feel 'content' – a Vietnamese word that means happiness, pleasure, and satisfaction. It’s our way of ensuring that every bowl is not just a meal, but a delightful experience,” she said.

Food experts shared with audiences about Hanoi Pho at the seminar.

Along with beef pho, another traditional pho variety in Hanoi is chicken pho. Nguyen The Hieu, the third-generation owner of the family business "Pho Chi" (specializing in chicken pho), said that his grandfather was initially a trader of pho spices, not selling pho. It wasn’t until the French colonial period that he began the pho business.

“My grandfather’s journey started after the liberation when he worked at Tan Viet restaurant on Hue Street, where he was in charge of making pho. Later, he began selling pho on the streets. In 1985, my father took over, and in 1996, I continued the family tradition. Now, my son also works with us, making him the fourth generation,” Hieu said.

Experts said that pho was primarily sold as street food, with vendors carrying their ingredients in baskets. Each basket contained a small compartment for bowls and chopsticks, jars of spices, and another forpho noodles and either beef or chicken.

They believe the creation of pho is a collective effort, shaped by many individuals and the community, intertwined with the social, historical, and cultural context. Le Thi Minh Ly, Vice President of the Vietnam Cultural Heritage Association, said that the exact origin of pho remains unclear and is still a subject of debate. "What’s important is that pho is a long-standing creation of the Vietnamese people, and this creation has become a unique characteristic of Hanoi. That’s why Hanoi Pho is so famous."

She said Hanoi Pho has been recognized as an intangible cultural heritage under the category of "folk knowledge." What makes Hanoi Pho special is its use of ingredients and cooking techniques passed down through generations.

“The chefs of this intangible cultural heritage are those who have passed down the craft over many generations. They not only practice pho-making for a living but also infuse creativity and individuality into preserving the tradition, ensuring it remains unchanged, uncommercialized, and not transformed into a different dish, thus creating their own brand,” Ly said.

To be officially recognized as a heritage, Ly said that the pho shop owners must also demonstrate sharing, hospitality, and a sense of community. To get the State’s protection, the owners have to commit to preserving its core values and contributing to the development of the capital and the nation.

"Being recognized means the State takes responsibility for the heritage. Hanoi Pho is a value that the State must protect, which is why it has now been officially listed."

Today, pho has evolved into many different variations: pho tron (a salad with beef or chicken and noodles), pho tai (with rare beef), pho xot vang (pho with beef stew sauce, pho rolls, and more. Pho is now found in upscale restaurants and hotels and has spread to other regions both across Vietnam and internationally. To meet the growing demand, instant pho has been developed, offering a flavor similar to fresh pho, providing convenience for consumers.

Artisan Pham Thi Anh Tuyet, a national artisan who has cooked Hanoi Pho for international dignitaries and celebrities visiting Hanoi, said: "When I serve pho to international guests and high-ranking leaders, they are always amazed by the dish. They describe it as a perfect combination, praising Hanoi Pho as a distinctive Vietnamese dish, with a harmonious and delicate blend of spices."

Coming from Ho Chi Minh City, artisan Bui Thi Suong told that she often introduced Vietnamese cuisine during her overseas trips. "Pho is the first dish we present in markets like Europe and Australia. In the past, pho was often referred to as ‘Beef Noodle Soup’ in English, but now, every country uses the term Pho. We feel very proud of that."

According to Suong, pho has developed differently in many localities, such as adding of other ingredients, but the key ones like beef bones, beef, sa sung (sea worm), cinnamon, and star anise must remain unchanged.

“In some countries, chefs even add fruits when making pho, which is an interesting creative twist on the traditional flavor. However, as long as the traditional Vietnamese taste is maintained, such creative variations are acceptable, especially if they make the dish tastier, more beautiful, and more suited to the local tastes of different regions and countries.

In his opening speech at the seminar, Nguyen Thanh Loi, Editor-in-Chief of Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper, said that the seminar on Protecting and Promoting the Intangible Cultural Heritage of 'Hanoi Pho' is an important activity in the Hanoi Culinary Culture Festival 2024, focusing on the protection and enhancement of the national intangible cultural heritage 'Hanoi Pho'.

Nguyen Thanh Loi, Editor-in-Chief of Kinh te & Do thi Newspaper speaks at the event.

Starting December 1, the newspaper officially launched the section "The Culinary Essence of Hanoi." The newspaper has invested in expertise and applied technology to enhance engagement with this section.

“We have published numerous articles on cultural topics, especially focusing on the preservation and promotion of intangible cultural heritage, including "Hanoi Pho." This allows both Vietnamese people and international visitors to access information about Hanoi Pho, helping to honor the artisans—guardians of the heritage—who dedicate their time and intellect to protecting and developing this cultural treasure.

Attending the seminar were cultural management agencies from Hanoi, experts, artisans, and esteemed guests from both Vietnam and abroad. The organizers hope that through this seminar, both residents and international visitors will gain a deeper understanding of Hanoi's cuisine in general, and Hanoi Pho in particular.

In 2020, the Hanoi Party Committee issued a resolution to develop culture in the area. Culinary heritage was identified as one of the priority sectors to be developed based on the capital’s cultural resources.

According to Pham Thi Lan Anh, Head of the Cultural Heritage Department at Hanoi's Department of Culture and Sports, the insights shared by the participants and artisans at this seminar will provide valuable suggestions for Hanoi on how to implement measures to protect and promote the intangible cultural heritage of 'Hanoi Pho' in the coming years."