Finding ways to make Hanoi pho, a global dish

After cooking pho for famous international politicians and celebrities, Hanoi-based Meritorious Artisan Pham Thi Anh Tuyet said: "My guests, some of whom were high-ranking foreign leaders, were very amazed and rated Hanoi pho as very special and perfect. They also appreciated pho as a creative dish with a harmonious and delicate combination of Vietnamese spices."

Pho is a specialty of Hanoi that every tourist should try. Photo: Quynh Anh/The Hanoi Times

On the evening of November 29, the folk knowledge of cooking Hanoi pho was officially recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage. This is an important step forward, confirming once again that Hanoi cuisine is recognized not only by the Vietnamese people but also internationally.

The creation of pho is the result of the ingenuity of many members of the community influenced by the social, historical, and cultural environment. The origin of pho is unknown and still controversial, according to Le Thi Minh Ly, Vice President of the Vietnam Cultural Heritage Association. But we must not forget that pho is an ancient Vietnamese invention that gives Hanoi a unique spirit, she pointed out.

State-protected heritage must pledge to uphold the basic principles, refrain from altering them, and support the growth of the nation and the capital. The State must develop a policy to preserve Hanoi pho, as it is not only a traditional cuisine, but also has many spiritual meanings, Ly stressed.

Recognized as a national intangible cultural heritage in the category of "folk knowledge", Hanoi pho is distinguished by the use of special ingredients, skills, and processing that have been passed down from generation to generation.

To prevent the tradition from being commercialized or turned into another dish, and to establish their brand, people cook pho not only as a means of subsistence but also with their unique flair and individuality. As a result, owners must protect the name and reputation of their pho restaurant," Ly said.

Artisan Nguyen Thi Muoi said her family started their pho business in 1930. In 1956, her father had to stop selling pho due to difficulties. In 1985, her mother gathered her children to continue the family business.

"We named the family brand Pho Suong, "suong" means cheerful, because after eating a bowl of delicious pho, we can feel happy and cheerful," said artisan Muoi.

Artisan Bui Thi Suong (Ho Chi Minh City), who often introduces Vietnamese cuisine when traveling abroad, proudly said: "Pho is the first dish we introduced to the European and Australian markets... In the past, people often translated pho into English as beef noodle soup, but now all countries clearly call it pho.

According to artisan Bui Thi Suong, pho has evolved differently in other places, and even in other nations, chefs use fruits when preparing pho.

"As long as it preserves Vietnam's original flavor, the inventiveness concerning traditional tastes is intriguing. We can still embrace creativity if it enhances the dish's flavor, aesthetic appeal, and suitability for both domestic and international palates," Suong stated.

A bowl of pho. Photo: Ngo Minh/The Hanoi Times

There used to be two kinds of pho: Noodle soup topped with rare beef or well-cooked beef. Now, pho has many different variations to suit the tastes of consumers, such as pho mixed with other ingredients, pho with wine sauce, rolled pho, stir-fried pho, and others.

Pho has also become an indispensable dish on the menu of restaurants and hotels and has spread to many localities and internationally.

The recognition of Hanoi pho as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage is not only an important turning point in the preservation and promotion of traditional cultural values but also opens the door for Vietnam to continue to shine on the world culinary map, pioneering and promoting Vietnamese cuisine beyond national borders.

According to MasterChef Vietnam Pham Tuan Hai, in schools, it is necessary to provide systematic training from traditional dishes so that learners have a foundation, then approach and develop to modern, creative dishes.

The expert emphasized that in cuisine, especially in pho, understanding tradition means understanding culture. The cuisine is the culture and vice versa.