Foreign YouTuber falls in love with Hanoi’s dish

THE HANOI TIMES — Bun dau mam tom (fresh noodles with tofu and shrimp paste) stood out among the dishes of Chinese traveler and YouTuber Miya and her Indonesian boyfriend, Nathan, on this July trip in Hanoi. 

During their trip, the couple, also known as Nathan & Miya on YouTube, indulged in the city’s vibrant street food scene and explored its iconic landmarks.

At a humble eatery on Ngo Gach Street in Hoan Kiem Ward, the couple ordered a hearty platter of bun dau thap cam featuring vermicelli, tofu, herbs, boiled pork, and cha com (green rice sausage), accompanied by crispy fried intestines and cha nem (spring rolls).

Before digging in, Miya sniffed the mam tom. "It’s not as strong-smelling as I expected," she said. With the confidence of a local, she expertly mixed the dipping sauce with lime, chili, and sugar, whisking it until frothy.

As the steaming platter arrived, Miya marveled at its inviting aroma and vibrant presentation. Her first bite of cha com dipped in mam tom elicited praise for its crisp texture and harmonious flavors: "The shrimp paste isn’t off-putting at all. Paired with crispy fried food, it’s delicious."

The cha nem impressed her with its crunchy shell and piping-hot, savory filling. She also relished the fried intestines for their golden crispness and rich flavor, enhanced by the bold mam tom.

The grilled pork intestines won her over with their soft, juicy filling and subtle crunch. The tofu was fried to perfection, with a crispy exterior and creamy interior that reminded her of tender young soybeans.

Before leaving Hanoi, Miya plans to return to the eatery for another serving of her new favorite dish. In addition to bun dau mam tom, Miya and Nathan enjoyed other street foods such as xoai muoi (mango with chili salt), bo nuong (grilled beef), and banh my chao (pan-fried bread) while exploring attractions like Hoan Kiem Lake and the Hanoi Opera House.

Hanoi's bun dau mam tom embodies the essence of the Vietnamese capital's culinary heritage, a humble yet complex dish that has transcended its origins as a street food to become a cultural icon. This seemingly simple combination of fresh rice vermicelli, golden-fried tofu, and pungent mam tom strikes the perfect balance of textures and flavors, which both locals and adventurous travelers come to adore.

The magic lies in the contrast of textures and flavors; it's silky white noodles contrast with crispy tofu shells, and a variety of accompaniments, such as boiled pork belly, fried spring rolls, pork sausage, and fresh herbs, complement the star ingredient, including unmistakable mam tom.

Any Hanoi expert will tell you that achieving the perfect consistency of mam tom, frothy, balanced, and aromatic, is the true art.

Despite being listed among the "45 Worst Vietnamese Dishes" by the international food magazine Taste Atlas, bun dau mam tom has garnered surprising praise from global food critics and travelers alike. The New York Times described the dish as "Vietnam's most polarizing yet addictive street food," and food vloggers call it "hell's smell, heaven's taste."

Many initially hesitant visitors, such as American blogger and YouTuber Max McFarlin (also known as Mắc Ơi), end up craving bun dau mam tom more after their first bite. They admit that the pungent shrimp paste perfectly complements the crispy tofu and fresh herbs.

From sidewalk stalls to upscale restaurants, bun dau mam tom has claimed its place alongside pho and bun cha as a must-try Hanoi specialty. For those willing to move past first impressions, bun dau mam tom offers the most authentic taste of Hanoi's culinary heartbeat - unpretentious, bold, and utterly unforgettable.