What will the future hold for Hanoi’s train street cafés?

THE HANOI TIMES —  A viral video showing a foreign tourist sliding onto the train tracks while filming a moving train has once again sparked heated debate in Vietnam. The man was reportedly pulled back to safety at the last second. The train kept going. The table and drinks next to him were thrown to the ground.

That moment stayed with me. Not just because it was frightening, but because I had stood in that exact spot months earlier with friends, holding a coffee, feeling thrilled and oblivious to what could have happened. As the train passed just inches away, the café patrons clapped. So did we. We thought we were part of something exciting. Looking back, I wonder what we were really applauding.

In response to the video circulating online, Hanoi’s authorities carried out an unannounced inspection of the cafés on Train Street. Dozens of foreign tourists were escorted away. Tables were cleared out. Several cafés were ordered to close for a time. The city cited safety as its priority. The police confirmed that they were reviewing footage and re-evaluating enforcement measures along the street’s busiest stretch, between Tran Phu and Phung Hung.

Only a few hundred meters long, Train Street has become a tourist magnet. The concept is simple but surreal. You can have a coffee while a train passes by you. The videos are dramatic. The photos are breathtaking. But the risks are real.

"I have been to more than fifty countries, but I have never seen anything like this," said Raphael, a French tourist who was turned away at the barricades. "It is beautiful, yet also a little bit crazy. That's probably why we love it."

However, city officials are under increasing pressure to take action. A representative from Hanoi’s traffic police publicly stated that the situation poses a direct risk to public safety and must be urgently addressed. The incident in which a tourist nearly fell onto the track, combined with earlier close calls in 2022 and 2024, has brought the issue back into the spotlight.

Business owners in the area say they are trying to strike a balance. Tran Minh Hao, who runs a small café near the tracks, said that they have installed railings and trained staff to alert customers when trains are approaching. They have even painted chalk lines to mark safe zones. "People come here knowing exactly what to expect. We tell them where to stand. They still come. This is not a theme park. This is a real street. But it is part of Hanoi's history."

According to tourism experts, the issue is not whether the cafés should exist, but how they are managed. In an interview, Dr Pham Hong Long, Dean of the Faculty of Tourism Studies at Hanoi National University of Social Sciences and Humanities, said that Train Street should not be allowed to operate informally. He recommended a tightly controlled approach involving fixed opening hours, public train schedules, registered cafés, trained security personnel, and visitor guidelines. He said the goal is not to ban the experience, but to standardize it.

Many draw comparisons with Thailand’s Maeklong Railway Market, where vendors operate alongside active railway lines but clear the way swiftly when trains pass. This market has become an example of how tourist interest and safety can coexist. In Hanoi, however, infrastructure challenges make things more complicated. Train schedules are often irregular. Trains may arrive earlier or later than scheduled. Communication is inconsistent.

Despite these challenges, several travel agencies in Vietnam have voiced support for a pilot licensing system. Licensed cafés would be permitted to open for limited hours. Staff would be trained. Warning systems would be standardized. Strict penalties would be imposed on those violating safety zones.

"It can still be a point of pride for the city, but it must be planned" said Nguyen Tien Dat, CEO of AZA Travel. "If we only react after incidents occur, then sooner or later something worse will happen."

Tourists are also becoming more cautious. Blogs and travel forums now include safety tips for visiting Train Street. Some recommend sitting at least one and a half meters away from the track. Others suggest avoiding the busiest times. Several even advise against going at all unless you are prepared to move quickly when the train approaches.

Nevertheless, the allure of Train Street remains strong. It's not just about the train. It's about the narrowness, the thrill, and the closeness of the old buildings and the rumbling metal. In a way that few tourist sites do, it feels real.

Personally, I believe Hanoi should not shut Train Street down entirely. However, it cannot remain as it is. Allowing cafés to operate in a legal grey zone puts everyone at risk. This creates a cycle in which tourists do not know what is permitted, business owners are uncertain, and the authorities are left to deal with the consequences of each near miss.

The city should act now. Authorize a small number of cafés. Set clear operating times. Designate viewing zones. Ensure that every business has insurance, trained staff, and communication tools. Local communities and tourism experts should be involved in designing a model that is appropriate for Hanoi, not just for social media.

If we wait for a fatal accident before taking action, not only will we have lost a visitor, but also a chance to demonstrate Hanoi's ability to manage its unique character responsibly.

Train Street is not a flaw in the city. It is a mirror. It reflects what we find charming and what we overlook until it is too late. This time, let's not wait.