Pho is a special dish, not unique to Hanoi, but it has long been an integral part of the capital's culture. Many visitors comment that only in Hanoi does pho taste the best.
| A bowl of beef pho at Pho Bat Dan, No.49 Bat Dan Street, Hanoi. Photo: Mia |
Hanoi pho landscape
Pho, the quintessential Vietnamese dish, stands as a cultural emblem and a culinary journey through Hanoi's spirit. With its fragrant broth, tender rice noodles, and savory toppings, it has achieved global recognition. Several Hanoi eateries have earned places in the Michelin Guide, cementing the city's reputation as a world-class culinary destination.
In Hanoi, pho transcends being a mere dish to become a lifestyle. Early mornings are filled with the fragrance of broth and the clatter of chopsticks. The city is dotted with vendors and family-run quan pho (pho shop) eateries, each boasting unique recipes.
The allure of pho lies in its simple yet complex nature, comprising broth, rice noodles, and either beef or chicken. It's the subtle variations in preparation and quality ingredients that transform a good bowl of pho into an exceptional experience.
Today, pho is a globally renowned dish, highly appreciated by both domestic and international tourists. Hanoi plans to intensify efforts in promoting, researching, and collecting information about pho; developing cultural spaces for practicing this heritage; and creating a pho map of Hanoi to promote this heritage and introduce the best pho restaurants to tourists.
| Famous US attorney David H. Gehrke with Pho Ly Quoc Su, Hanoi. Photo: The Hanoi Times |
Six pho restaurants in Hanoi listed in the Michelin Selected category include Pho Bat Dan, Pho Au Trieu, Pho 10 Ly Quoc Su, Pho Ga Nguyet, Pho Khoi Hoi, and Pho Ga Cham.
Five out of them are located in Hoan Kiem District – Hanoi’s hectic downtown, home to an Old Quarter with Vietnamese craft shops and small eateries selling pho and banh mi sandwiches.
The recent recognition of Hanoi's pho by the Michelin Guide has brought international attention to this beloved dish, highlighting its quality, tradition, and innovation, acknowledging the culinary mastery of Southeast Asia's street food.
It has put Hanoi on the global culinary map and sparked renewed interest in traditional Vietnamese cuisine, encouraging chefs to innovate while staying true to pho's essence. Michelin-listed pho restaurants in Hanoi offer a refined dining experience, elevating the humble noodle soup into a gourmet experience without losing its authenticity.
| Making pho. |
Pho Bat Dan at No.49 Bat Dan Street and Pho Ly Quoc Su at 10 Ly Quoc Su have gained a reputation for years while others are favorite destinations of many Hanoians and visitors.
Pho Khoi Hoi, located at 50 Hang Vai Street, is a well-known restaurant that has become an essential part of the old town's lifestyle. The playful nickname of the owner, who has a bald forehead, inspired the restaurant's name. The menu offers a wide variety of beef pho, with options like crispy flank, crispy brisket core, and rare brisket. The secret to Pho Khoi Hoi’s delicious flavor lies in its broth, which is crafted from simmered bones and boiled meat, infused with star anise, cardamom, cinnamon, grilled dried onions, and fresh ginger. These elements come together to create an exquisite bowl of pho.
Situated next to St. Joseph's Cathedral, Pho Au Trieu is a renowned branch of the famous Pho Tu Lun restaurant. The owner, Ngo Phi Nga, is the granddaughter of the creator of the once-iconic Pho Tu Lun brand. Upholding the family tradition, Pho Au Trieu faithfully follows the original Pho Tu Lun recipe, known for its slightly cloudy and flavorful beef broth. The tender rice noodles blend seamlessly with the rich broth. Dedicated to ensuring every customer enjoys a delicious and safe meal, Nga personally oversees most tasks from preparation to service. This commitment has made the restaurant a popular destination, attracting even international visitors without the need for a signboard.
Meanwhile, pho ga or chicken pho is believed to have emerged after beef pho. Among the six pho restaurants nominated by Michelin, two specialize in chicken pho. Both establishments have been acclaimed as the best chicken pho spots in Hanoi. Ph Ga Cham in Yen Ninh Street (Ba Dinh District) is renowned not only for its exquisite flavor but also for being considered the most expensive chicken pho in Hanoi. The other restaurant on Michelin's list is Pho Ga Nguyet in Phu Doan Street, which remains a beloved favorite among old-town residents.
| Locals enjoy pho in Hanoi. |
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According to many historical records, pho in Hanoi originated in the early 20th century. From 1907 to 1910, pho was a type of food that was carried around and sold throughout Hanoi's streets.
Remarkably, Hanoi pho has been recognized as a National Intangible Cultural Heritage by the Ministry of Culture, Sports, and Tourism.
The Hanoi People's Committee submitted a dossier proposing the inclusion of the traditional knowledge of Hanoi pho in the National Intangible Cultural Heritage List. According to the dossier, the bearers of this dish are individuals and families who directly practice and preserve the knowledge, skills, techniques, and secrets of making pho, passed down through generations, thus continuing the recognized identity and brand. Additionally, there is a community group that enjoys pho.
As of the end of 2023, a survey conducted by the Hanoi Department of Culture and Sports across 18 out of 30 districts and towns in Hanoi found approximately 700 pho shops meeting food safety and hygiene standards. These shops are mainly located in the districts of Ba Dinh, Hoan Kiem, Cau Giay, Dong Da, Hai Ba Trung, Thanh Xuan, and Long Bien. However, traditional pho brands (with over two generations of pho-making) usually specialize in beef or chicken pho and are mainly found in the districts of Hoan Kiem, Ba Dinh, and Hai Ba Trung.
